Your Home Security Plan Is At Risk Without This Essential Prep: “All Could Be Lost”

by | Jan 23, 2017 | Headline News | 79 comments

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    This guide was originally published by Jeremiah Johnson at Tess Pennington’s


    This piece is on some of the parameters and importance on keeping things safe…inside of a safe, or a “safe space” where they won’t be compromised.  The compromise that I speak of means from fires, thieves, floods, or mayhem in general.  Every family should consider some kind of safe, as well as a safe/hidden spot to keep the safe in.  You have valuable (either financially or holding value due to their nature) possessions and documents that need safeguarding.

    All Could Be Lost Without This Home Security Prep

    Let’s start by saying it would behoove you to have 2 types of safe: one for larger items, and another one for portable, smaller items, especially in the way of documents.  Such documents can include (but certainly aren’t limited to) passports, marriage licenses, birth certificates, land deeds, vehicle titles, corporate stock and/or documents, to name a few.  A smaller, more portable type of safe would do in this case, such as those made by Sentry to lock with a key and a recessed handle.

    You may want to pick up a fireproof type of safe or box for your ammo, to store in the vicinity of any safe that has firearms, but do not store the ammo in the safe with the firearm.


    These small safes can hold your documents and certifications, usually protecting them from fire up to about 1,500 degrees F, as well as being water-tight to protect them from flooding and water damage.  Now, the whole point of having this type of safe is to make your documents portable.  The fire rating may help you if you’re not able to get to them, and must recover them later, or if they suffer “light” exposure to flame and you are able to grab them…and they’ll be protected.

    The other type – a larger, heavier kind may have to wait for you to return after a fire or flood.  Sentry makes these guys, too, and I prefer the tumbler kind to the electric.  Firstly, if there’s any kind of solar flare or EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse), you may not be able to get into the safe.  Secondly, the battery is going to run down eventually.  You’re much better off with a “click and tumbler” type of combination lock on the front.  The larger safe will also hold documents, but you can also store things such as jewelry, extra cash, a firearm or two, precious/valuable coins and metals…the list is endless.


    This type of safe will usually be good up to about 2,000 degrees F, and can be bolted to the floor.  This latter detail precludes being able to just lift it up and take it away.  This type of safe should be hidden.  The possibilities include (but aren’t limited to) a piece of furniture either bought (premade specifically to hide it) or specially made for the occasion, a recessed wall or floor, or a hidden room that only you and your family know about.

    This last point is especially if you have paperwork or documents in the safe.  You don’t want to “cook off” the ammo with excessive heat inside of the safe and start a fire internally.  Another thing to consider hiding the safe in plain sight by installing it inside of a wall.  This can be done with masonry or with timber and drywall.  The key being you need as much space for the safe as is minimally possible, and it (the space) needs to blend with its surroundings.  It is better to go with the ground floor for such a location, as if you have it on the second floor and the house burns down, it’ll probably end up being in the basement after a considerable fall, and this after being weakened by the fire.

    Keep a copy of the combination in a place where it won’t be lost if the house goes down and in a manner that will not allow it to be affected by the elements.  An index card or portion of one with the combination on it and laminated with heavy-gauge laminate is your best bet in this regard.  Make sure your family members (if they’re trustworthy, mind you) know the combination to the safe and where to find it.  In an age where safety deposit boxes in banks are no longer inviolate to the IRS or the Federal Government, the home safes may assure you both of security and privacy.

    Always learn the fire-rating beforehand, and buy them new, not used.  You do not know what the previous owners may have either went through or subjected the safe to prior to you owning it.  In this manner, you have quality backed by some type of warranty.  There are plenty of websites available with plans and ideas of where in your house to recess one should you wish to do so.  Consider one or two for your home.  It is a not-so-costly investment that will keep your stuff safe and pay for itself the first time it’s needed.  Keep your things safe, and be safe in all you do.

    This article first appeared at Tess Pennington’s Ready

    The Prepper's Blueprint

    Tess Pennington is the author of The Prepper’s Blueprint, a comprehensive guide that uses real-life scenarios to help you prepare for any disaster. Because a crisis rarely stops with a triggering event the aftermath can spiral, having the capacity to cripple our normal ways of life. The well-rounded, multi-layered approach outlined in the Blueprint helps you make sense of a wide array of preparedness concepts through easily digestible action items and supply lists.

    Tess is also the author of the highly rated Prepper’s Cookbook, which helps you to create a plan for stocking, organizing and maintaining a proper emergency food supply and includes over 300 recipes for nutritious, delicious, life-saving meals. 

    Visit her web site at for an extensive compilation of free information on preparedness, homesteading, and healthy living.


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      1. The “safe” I use is a pvc pipe buried with the contents vac packed. Works great and no one will ever find it. Never be burned or stolen or flooded or anything else. Cheap too! A regular safe just says “HERES MY VALUABLES”. I buried 7 gunz in pvc tubes for 7 years and dug them up, good as new and ready to go! Try using “corrosion-x” spray on the metal, it’s great stuff and easy to clean off.

        • Oh and have a good map of where you bury it, I had a hell of a time finding it because the landscape (and my memory) had changed over the years lol.

        • If you have a vested interested in preserving electronics through say, an EMP attack/Carrington Event, you can always take an old microwave set for disposal, remove the plug and attack wires to a grounding rod, put electronics (say 2 way radios/ham radio) inside the microwave and bury it. The microwave is built with a faraday cage, and is capable of blocking all outside electrical waves.


          • But is it waterproof?

          • Grounding the case,door, and window mesh, means, you do not have to bury it. Just build it into a wall or other structure to make accessible yet invisible.

            • That’s an interesting idea, but with all due respect, I don’t know how much you can rely on it. I’m no expert, but I think microwaves are poorly shielded. You can get a test unit cheap online to see if yours is leaking. I had the opportunity to play with an RF Spectrum Analyzer and a microwave once and I know at least that one leaked. I got a surplus foam-lined ammo can to hold a small radio and other toys.

              • a microwave is not anything like a faraday cage, there are much better ways, try googling it for a better idea, yes i am very familiar with them from work issues and your wasting your time if you use one.

              • FYI: A quick way to test your microwave to see if the seal is intact and that it’s not leaking microwaves (or allowing any in) is to put your cell phone inside, close the door, and call it.

                If it rings, you have a leak.

        • couple of things very wrong here…
          1- why am I storing my guns and ammo separately if I’m relying on them to defend me? The last thing I want to hear before I die is “honey grab they keys to both safes, its a home invasion!
          2- you’re gonna need a much bigger safe for ammo unless youre just storing a couple hundred rounds (in which case, why bother.)
          My “daily use” ammo and primers are stored in TWO converted refrigerators in my reloading room. Powder is stored in a good sized wood cabinet with a fragile top to direct any possible accidental explosion upwards.
          My long term storage stuff? I’m not saying, but its more than some shitty document safe will hold.


      2. You may want to pick up a fireproof type of safe or box for your ammo, to store in the vicinity of any safe that has firearms, but do not store the ammo in the safe with the firearm.

        Been prepping for over 30 years. I would have to buy another house to store my survival stuff. LOL

        Just don’t store everything together. If the SHTF you will need stuff all over Food Water Ammo weapons ECT.

        A Dog is a good thing to have it might slow them down or even stop them. (If you kill my dog would be like killing one of my kids.) You will die a very terrible death. No threat a warning.


        • I like the oversea containers with a lockbox. Much more secure than a shed too. Make a hatch in the floor to a buried safe stash. Pretty hard to burn a steel container. You can get 10′ to 45 foot sizes to fit your needs. The only issue is they get pretty hot so not reccommended for food.

          • G
            I have looked at these, but I am trying to move to Tenn. so I am going to wait until I get there.

            I’m looking at getting at least 2 of them. One to use as a MAN CAVE and Reloading room, also to store stuff in and the other to set up a off the grid kitchen, or hospital for the group. I’m looking at a place now just hope it works out.

            Have any advise on the size you would recommend. MAN CAVE 20 footer, and 30 Footer. Or maybe just get a 45 footer and put in both in one.


            • I have a 40 footer and it has a ton of space. I walled off the back 10 feet and insulated and ventilated it for storage of items that are too heat sensitive. Cut a couple of holes in the floor and put 12volt fans in them and drilled outlets along the top where the metal ribs are covered by the beam for cooling. Paint the top (sides too if you don’t need some opsec) with the henry’s 10 year white solar reflective paint. The fans (computer fans) run off a 130 watt solar panel and 1 battery. I also have 12 volt lights. I built shelving all the way down both sides (except where we park 2 atv’s) on 1 side. It is amazing how much stuff I have packed in it and still have room to spare. BE SURE and have a lockbox welded on it! It is almost impossible to break into once you do that. For the other 30 feet that is not walled off and insulated I drilled 3/8 holes down the top ribs (every other rib) that are covered and just drilled some 1 inch holes in the floor every 4 feet or so (you have to staple screen over them). It makes a convection cooling system that helps a lot. A 40 footer is usually the best deal for the money but SHOP AROUND as prices vary a LOT! Be sure to check the roof of the container before you buy it because that is where you will find the problems (rust/corrosion). Before painting it use the rustolium rust converter spray on all rust spots. If you find the 40 isn’t big enough (I doubt you will), you can always get a smaller one to add. Ask the people you buy it from if they guarantee it not to leak too. Good Luck and I sure do love my container!

              • P.S. set it up on some railroad ties or big wood beams. This will let cool air circulate underneath and keep water off of it and prevent rust.

                • LOL 1 more thing… This is where I keep a large galvanized steel garbage can (lined inside) with a ground wire through the floor to a grounding rod outside for my backup electronics and radio gear. Whatever makes it through the container is less likely to make it through the garbage can. Just FYI.

            • Hi Sarge,
              I have a FEU( 40 footer). Get a insulated Reefer box. It is very well insulated all the way around and has nice smooth interior aluminum walls. It is easy to install a floor which you will have to do. I did hardibacker board and cheap tile as I can hose it out that way.
              I put in windows, and a door, no roof vents! I’m sure I could put in a wood stove if needed(I don’t need heaters here) just do it right. I use it as storage and as a hobby studio( reloading, models, etc. etc.) I installed a bed for when we have overflow visitors.
              Basically a 40 footer can be a very comfortable place to live, just be careful about ventilation. When everything is closed up you can run low on oxygen.

              • relik, I like you and your a good guy so don’t take this personal but there are a few flaws with a refer unit. The first being you have to build a floor. The next is they are roll up doors which are very unsecure (making a wood frame is no better). They are more expensive. There is a hole in the front where the refer unit mounts. For ventilation you don’t have to make any holes in the roof of a regular container, just drill the holes in the sides at the top. I have 0 roof penetrations and fresh air all the time. Insulation is easy with foil backed styrofoam sheeting and liquid nails. I’m sorry I just can’t see or justify the insecurity and price for a refer box..

                • Not to mention a sawzall can cut right through a refer trailer in no time…

                  • I had to use a cobalt drill bit for the pilot holes and a cobalt 3/8 for the rest and it was a hell of a lot of work to get those holes drilled! Containers are tough as hell! Anyone who thinks they can cut their way in are in for a big surprise! That steel is thick and very difficult to cut. Better bring 10 extra blades and 10 extra batteries and 10X the time if you plan on cutting through the sides of a container mofo. That shit ain’t no joke! Nothing like a semi trailer with cheap sheet metal siding. Try it sometime and get back to me…. I know what your response will be lol….

                    • To the above.

                • Hi Genius,
                  No insult taken.
                  My Reefer unit is Maersk, made in Norway or Sweden.
                  No roll-up doors, it was built to withstand poor Bangladesh
                  thieves breaking in, you need a SawZall, or a lot of patience.
                  For a regular TEU or FEU torch works great and is fast, not so with a reffer.
                  Yes, you do have to do the floor as they are designed to be wet without harming the contents and cleaned with high pressure hoses.
                  Lots of people in the islands make shall we say, un-permitted dwellings, regular TEU or FEU are a real pain to insulate, so most go with tents or single wall plywood with tin roof “places”.
                  For Sgt. I figured insulation was a biggie as it is in Tennessee,
                  they have 4 seasons and two are miserable one too hot and one too cold.
                  Here locally the cost difference between a reffer and a naked container is only about 12% so (and this is old numbers) $6000 for a reffer and $5400 for a FEU.
                  Good information for all us preppers right?
                  Keep on prepping.

            • Qty2 20’sthen build a cover indetween for parking or patio

            • Sarge,
              I would suggest buy a 20 foot and a 40 foot. you dig a hole under where the 40 ft. will sit, take the 20 ft. and coat it with bed liner spray on type, yes you will have to turn it over, also you will need to do a little wall reinforcing to keep the dirt from pushing on the sides, or you can pour concrete down the sides to strength them, if you use concrete then put temp. cross bracing inside the container, remove them after it sets up then you can put the 40 directly on the top and you’ll have a very nice concealed room under it. it is a fair amount of work but i think is well worth it.
              good luck on your move and hope it happens soon!

          • I abandoned any idea for a steel comtainer. Rust and humidity is not your friend and the sun and heat here in Florida would be like a blast furnace in the summer 250 degs inside. For about the same price just buy a real building portable prefabbed Shed that you can set on blocks. I have several with 2×6 wall construction to add plenty of insulation. Re Safes. Only keep minimal in them, or as a decoy. Use 4″ PVC and burried in the bank of dirt. Use good moisture absorbers and bury in many caches, some on your property and some not. If you can lock all your ammo in a safe, you do Not have enough ammo. Use sealed military grade ammo cans. Plastic ammo cans are for kids. Keep important papers titles etc in a water tight sealed container. Like a 5 gal bucket with a gamma twist lid.

            • yup. you get home-invasioned, and you will take them right to the safe, and open it and hand them all the hundred bucks that’s in there…..meanwhile, the REAL money is buried/hidden elsewhere. i believe in having something to give the thieves, so MAYbe they will just leave, and let you live.

              • back in the sixties near williford Ak. There was a old couple who it was rumored to have lots of money. A group of teens went and robbed them. Got about $800. They tortured both of the old people to death trying to extract where the money was hidden. Apparently the Measly $800 was all they had?

            • I keep the titles in the glovebox of the vehicle they go to. Anyone attempting to use them will have to take them to a DMV. and there is a nation wide computer system that checks all title transfers. If I lose my property deeds they are recorded at the County court house and its easy to get a copy. Most folks keep too much paperwork. When I applied for Social Security I never had to show any ID. not even my SS card. All I needed was my SS number That I have memorized.

              • Yeah old Guy wait when your car catches fire and you just burned up your title in your glove box. Dumb Idea!!

                • If the car burns what good is the title? I could still go to the DMV and for $5 get a duplicate title.

        • Sgt. Dale: Agree on the dog. They are my early warning system, alarm, and poultry protectors. Don’t think the rest of the family (the human ones) or our critters would last long without them if SHTF.

        • Sarge, that’s only one reason I got the arrangement for the BOL almost 4 years ago. Most of my preps are in a storage building that’s bigger than the house I’m in, LOL.

        • WE have a great dog. She hears things us older folks do not. Had a drunk young guy try to get it our house at 3Am and she went nuts. Louder than OMG. Good Dog, scared the living H out of us. Let her out of bedroom and she tore at the door. WE can see the door from a window and there he is, drunker than
          a skunk. Just dialed 911 and turns out the cops were looking for the fella. This little event now has my wife thinking about what would have happened if he wasn’t drunk and got in as an invasion? I’ve tried to convince my wife on training and using a Handgun but to no avail. Sometimes events can have an eye opening and better effect. peace

          • little dogs hear better than big dogs….and they eat a whole lot LESS. it’s my yappers job to let me know of an intruder, it’s MY job to “take care of” that intruder.

            • You are right on about that. Got some little “Yorkies”. 3 to 4 pounds each. You cannot sneak up on these guys. I have tried to trick them. Not in the cards. They don’t eat much and are super smart. They can hear a mouse fart across the street. Best alarm system around.

          • Old vet, maybe that Kimber 2 shot pepper spray for her?

      3. That first Sentry safe you recommend above is NOT secure. I purchased one just like that last year and by pure accident opened it without the key.

        Stand it on one side (short side), apply minimal pressure to the lid from the other short side and it pops right open.

        I understand that may be all someone can afford. But please understand it will not protect your valuables from being stolen.

        Get a bigger safe if you can afford it.

        The one I bought last year I now leave out in the open as a decoy. Hopefully they’ll take it and run.

        • I bought an elcheapo gun safe from K Mart many years ago, stamped steel & a combo lock. It’s a decoy, store my Xmas decos in it, but someone will spend time trying to get into it. Have a fire proof/hidden wall in my shop for the good stuff.

        • Dear JB,

          Your points are valid. The reason I recommended the small one was not so much for security from theft, but to safeguard it from fire or flood. It’s portable, so it could hold stuff that you “grab and go,” but not so much to safeguard it from thieves. The intent is more a “briefcase” that won’t burn up or be flooded out. The other one’s the safe that will better work for thieves. Hope this explains what I meant.


          • Thanks JJ.. Our concern is always security on safes. Fire is our biggest worry not flooding because we live at such an altitude.Many of these comments are very helpful. Decoy, a great idea.

        • Re: Security. Everything is breachable including safes. It just slows them down and delays their progress. One of the best security devices can be bought for about $1.00. And that is a No Trespassing sign with the words VIDEO RECORDING on it and these signs placed at your perimeter and gate areas. “NOTHING BACK HERE WORTH DYING FOR” is also good. “Or if you can read this you are too close within my Shotgun Range.” A Sentury safe??? Lol A hammer and screwdriver and a few wacks and you’re in. Another clueless article by you know who.

          • the words “video recording” means they’re pulling their bandannas over their faces. Ok, maybe late, too.

            But to some bad guys, that just announces you’ve got something worth breaking into.
            It can work both ways.
            Business robbed here and the guys search for the camera recordings, found them, and got away clean.

      4. Trouble with a home safe is that when they bad guy points a shotgun at your wife’s head and says “OPEN IT”. what do you do?

        ….and if you are not at home the safe says it has something worth having inside, and they take the whole damned thing to open later.


        • PVC….PVC….PVC lol.

        • I’ve often thought about that.

          I was thinking that since I already have a high quality Liberty safe, maybe the thing to do is keep a single old POS rifle (working optional), maybe a few “important” documents, and a few bullion coins in it, and then hiding the real stuff in plain sight, like those wall hangings that have guns hidden in them, etc..

          • Nunya, now your getting the picture 🙂

          • NB, that’s a rich man’s safe, that Liberty. They are the best on the market, but most people don’t have thousands of dollars to spend a safe.

        • Re: A bad guy points a shotgun at your wife’s head and says “OPEN IT”. what do you do?

          Answer: Let him shoot her and collect the million dollar life ins policy and find a new Hottie half her age to enjoy life with.

          Any other questions? lol

          • why’d you change names again?

        • If the shotgun is pointed at your wife then shoot the guy with the shotgun in the head. You and others will die if you open that safe. Best off if one only gets it. (sorry darlin’)

        • You are correct. I learned something a few months ago that is still sticking with me. I was at a locksmith’s place getting a few keys made. Outside near the back of the building were 4 “gun safes” with the sides cut open. I asked the owner what was up with that. He said that they were cut open with die grinders and emptied out while the owners were not at home. Bummer I thought. I told him that I had a couple of Fort Knox vaults and always thought they were pretty much theft proof. He just laughed and said that if you want a “safe”, buy a “safe”. A “gun vault” is just that. A “gun vault”. He then showed me a “safe” that was made with some special armored plate, ceramic filled walls, and that weighed 4000#. It was only about 2′ deep, 3 1/2′ wide and about 5′ tall. Price was $12K+ He said there was no way that anyone could get into that thing. Die grinder bits just explode when they hit the ceramic. I stepped back and looked at it and said that I could get into in just a few seconds. Baffled he look at me and said how is that? I pointed the Colt 1911 on my hip under my shirt and said that I would put this against the side of your head and say open that or I am going to blow your damn brains out and you will open it. Hmmmmm he said. Some PVC tubes buried in an area with a bunch of junk metal scattered all around it might be something to think about…..


        Since 1968, Graffunder Safes and Vault Doors have been hand crafted for commercial and residential use. Guided by the philosophy “quality over quantity”, our products exceed industry standards at every level and in every area. With a specialty in custom work; this business has earned its reputation as “the Rolls Royce of Safes”.

      6. I see so many people talk about lock boxes and pvc. Think of yourselves looking ? Would you get fooled by these tactics? Burying something in your backyard? Ever heard of metal detectors? Think of someone as smart as you searching your place? We will have to be smarter? They are stupid but numerous with intelligent leaders. Off site stash? All your eggs in one basket? Think again? Plan your retreat? The man who plans ahead . Gets ahead? If I was alive before the civil war . And I had 4 years of food stashed. I could go out and hide and survive? And sniped from a supported position? Lose anyway? Maybe? Maybe not?comite or not to comite. That is the question? Fight or hide? Traitor or survivor? The question? I say traitor. Maybe I’m wrong?

        • Metal detectors are thwarted by a abundance of metal. you burn tin cans. and let them rust away in your compost heap. spread that soil around and it will set metal detectors off. I metal detected a acient house fire. and the silver coins had literaly became part of the soil.

          • I dont bury stuff on my property, that would be foolish. I buried my guns in an old abandoned landfill. Many places to hide stuff in the forest and under old cars.

      7. Been working construction for 30 years . Have something called a hot saw , or demo saw, or quick saw,. It’s a chainsaw with a steel cutting blade. Bye bye gun safe. If they can’t find it they can’t steal it . Period. Also a plummers pack . A small acetylene torch. Cuts anything. They will have it all. If they can’t find it they can’t confiscate it . Period. Get smart or go bye bye.

      8. Ah, great idea.

        And then just toss them into your bugout bag when you get ready to hit the road…

        …or am I confusing issues here? Perhaps, I’m just overly focused on the big incoming. How’s your 401K?

      9. Unacceptable! It is impossible to store ammo in a different lock box than your weapons if your weapons remain loaded. Any home defense plan which includes firearms MUST include a LOADED weapon being accessible to the owner at all times.

        • Always keep a hidden gun by the safe to deploy if you are ever forced to open it. Use your body as cover from view, as you retrieve your weapon to deploy and dispatch the robber. Electronic safes also come with keys for mechanical override.

      10. Those lil sentry safes are NOT can open one with a credit card or metal feeler gauge slipped in the gap between the lid and base. Dont believe me, go to walmart (they sell them) and try it. They are good for storing docs,etc inside an existing fullsize they add a bit of potential fire protection and as an organized quick grab, but thats about it.
        As far as actual safes are concerned..the bigger, heavier and harder to dislodge/move, the better. I know guys who have literally built the house around massive safes, making it impossible to ever be moved, pried, etc. …short of that all you can do is slow a thief down, as everything can be breeched with enough time and desire.

      11. Off Topic:
        Bone Broth:

        I soaked beans in a bowl in the fridge. It takes up a ton of space. The bowl can spill and make a mess. I’ve started using a wide mouth jar, similar to a mayonaise jar. It works much better.

        Since bones should cook for between 24 to 48 hours in water with a tablespoon of acv (Apple Cider Vinegar), it occurred to me to try something, which worked. I froze the bones and reused them.

      12. To avoid fires, dont store your propane, gasoline and fuels in the same building as your tools and valuables. I use those large swimming pool chest like containers with a flip lid located at least 30 ft from all buildings. Think fire prevention. Common sense. Do you have smoke detectors? Fresh batteries? Test them lately? Lock your doors and windows when you leave your property. Always lock your driveway gate even when you are home. Or do you only lick it when you go away. Advertising you are not there. Stupid is. Thieves do recon and know your daily habits and paterns. Be unpredictable and layers of security works best. Deceive, deture, deny, delay, decoy… Out of sight out of mind. Stupid people leave valuables laying around for easy pickings. 2 types of people. Victims and those with guns.

      13. There are a lot of optional sites that sell furniture with hidden spots for weapons. hide em in the walls,attic,ceiling. It takes time to look for them and burglars don’t have a lot of time,spread em out.

      14. Critters.

        …any hole the size of a dime–mice will enter and multiply, chew wiring, destroy eatables, pee and poop on all.

        …any holes the size of quarters–chipmunks. same deal.

        ….any bigger holes–squirrels.

        …and the big pests–coons and gophers.

        make sure all holes/entry points/cracks are handled well.

      15. Is it safe?

        • “Yes it’s safe. It’s so safe, you wouldn’t believe it.”

          I saw what you did there. HA!

      16. Sentry safe is garbage jmo. Get a quality safe from a reputable locksmith dealer. Anchor it to concrete. Anything less is waste of time.

      17. I have a few safes like the little one pictured above. One is for vital documents, one is for valuables and is hidden, and one is in my bedroom, poorly hidden under the bed.

        My intent is for anyone who breaks in to go to the master bedroom, spot the poorly-hidden safe, and run out the door without spending too much time looking for more. The tantalizing rattle and heft of the safe should be enough to satisfy them, but if they actually do open it, they’ll see some (fake) gold coins and a big rubber-banded wad of money that turns out to just be a bunch of singles.

      18. “Hey Dumb-Ass, that door was locked for your protection!” (Boom, Boom, Boom)


        I Just added a blow torch to my preps and got 6 of them with extra tanks. I learned that one here. I think I know everything and still don’t know enough. A blow torch can get a lot of things done post shtf. It can soften up parts on car if you have to scavenge recked cars for electronics, or metallic parts, it can soften up and melt locks,etc, start fires in the woods, this is much easier to accomplish, but you will need to use lighters, they are more plentyfull and avaible. My red neck friends literally put my ass to the test telling me, we know you can kick ass and fight but your still dead if you cant start a fire, so they dug and cleared the grass gave me some matches and proved me a total useless incompetent idiot, but they taught me well. So everytime I met with them, they told me, HCKS start the fire, and I could start the fire and maintain it, until the wood became petrified, then I would see it ignite and maintain itself with hell hot heat 5 ft away, I was in 39″ and let me tell you, if your in post winter shtf, if you cant stay warm, you will get sick and die, if you have no heat and you have the flu, your screwed. Then we would cook our chicken and beef with raw fire. I practiced starting fires last winter and I can tell you, its difficult to use matches. You can lean alot of stuff from read necks. Every time it took me over 1 hour to maintain that fire, add more leaves and branches were added, it was hell, and I have mastered it. The cigarette lighter is much faster, because you can keep burning the wood and leaves, fires start in half the time. A lot of city preppers don’t have any fire experience. I gained mine in 2016. I have a lot of lighters and learned that one from the SHTF course. But a blow torch is good to have handy. It cab burn down houses, buildings, and other things that you may need to do, fry the crap out of electronics, etc. I just upgraded to the blow torch. A blow torch is a read necks best friend and lighters are his next good reliable buddies. If you cant light shit up post SHTF, your PHUCKED WITH A CAPITLA F. If I catch a lizard and need to quick protein, it will roast him in less than 3 minutes for a good snack.

        Dum down people who are not prepped are really in
        serious shit.


        • So HCKS, when are the Russians going to attack us? Thought you said this was going to happen before the election? How about all the Aircraft Carriers docked, Thought we were going to get attacked as you said?

          So what else do you know?? lol


        Hey you agency ass clown trolls, time for your first White House Breafing.


        2017-2020, Year of the internet agency ass clown troll collapse.

      21. All any safe actually does is place all your valuables in one location. Any safe that is moveable can be carried away by determined thieves. Some thieves stole a wrecker and used it to winch a 1,000 pound safe through the wall of a Bowling Alley at Rockford Ill in the early 70,s. Took it to a remote location and broke into it at their leisure. Hidey holes are cheaper and safer.

      22. My weapons are covered in the case of fire or theft via insurance. In the case of a home invasion dont let them get past your threshold alive. When you feel the need to hide your weapons thats exactly when you need them, dont hide it use it.

      23. TD, that’s if Hillary won the election. That outcome may have changed. China will attack the United States along with Russia no matter what Trump does. China will never retract on a one china policy, they have already taken over island, added surface to carrier DF20 CARRIER KILLERS

      24. Trump is not building up the military because Russia and china will accept his new deals and ideology. Trump Deplorable, this is what you are missing. You watch a countries actions, and see the shit that they do, to determine to see the possible outcome. Our military must be built up. Incase you may not know, all the air craft carriers are now stationed, with all the copper wiring and electronics being removed, to be replaced with fiber optics to protect against Russian EMP and weaponry, since the entire crews have told the Navy, that they are literally a sitting duck. China and Russia can disable all destroyers, all carrier and then attack all our ships at sea, sink all of them, then they hit our air force with the crappy f-15,16,18’s, that do not have trust vector jet engines, while on the f22 raptor has and that jet is no match for the SU34,35 and PAK 50.. So don’t come on here and piss me off, trying to prove me and idiot. You don’t have to contacts I have, you don’t know people in military, CIA AND GOVERMENT, you don’t take to them, and I do. You don’t know scientist who know people who built underground bases, and intesteller space ships with Blackops programs, I do, you do not. You don’t talk to people that tell you the the moon Europa has ocean life in the water, that they have been on Europa since the 80’s, and that they have colonized the moon Ganamedes, Mars since 1971. You don’t know what I do. Trump’s win just delayed the start of WW3 for 2-3 additional years, and ww3 will commense and civil war will commense in this country. Incase you don’t know, you need to see about the cali exit, and because if it does, then what till Trump do. Do you think this will not trigger a war in our country. Has the Russians, and chinese soldiers been removed from the US yet. No they have not. Don’t come on here troll with your fake ass handle and think that because you call yourself Trump Deplorable that I wont call you out as a troll. FUCK YOU TROLL.


      25. No war with Russia or china if Trump keeps his promise and tells the UN to take a flying leap. If we start minding our own business we will not be attacked. Did you know Russia and China where our friends during WWII. The airplanes bombing Japan didn’t have enough fuel to return. So they headed towards China. And bailed out into China. The Chinese helped the pilots return to Britian. And the Russians for the most part are White Christians and lost an entire generation of young men during WWII.

      26. Yes Old Guy, things have changed a lot in the last 50 years and how on Gods earth did we ever get to this point? When the hell do we ever learn.


      27. Ok, here we go. I use the Sentry safes and a couple of smaller sturdier ones. I know they ain’t what’s needed. But my plan is to be able to take every damned prep I have, including safes, to an alternate location. How’s your 1000 lb. safe looking now? At the alternate location, the easily moved and locked Sentry and others will enable me SOME security, if nothing else, unseen security, whilst I go back and forth from old to new location. Besides, no safe will protect you forever. Either the thieves get more ambitious, or fire does the work. Faraday cages. Use old metal ammo boxes. You don’t have to modify them. Just put what you want protected in them, lock them closed, put them on the FLOOR. Whip a strand of insulated wire, (thick) from the handle or the inside, to a metal stake driven 18 inches into the ground if you want, for each box. But you DON”T NEED IT. Metal in contact with ground concrete, rocks, dirt, GROUND, will discharge EMP into the ground. You also could insulate the article in the box from the metal sides with cardboard or styrofoam (hard) but I use cardboard. Clean the boxes. Keep as much ammo as you want, in metal ammo boxes, you know the ones I’m talking about. Make them clean and paint as necessary, Mr. Rust is your enemy too. I don’t keep a lot of ammo in the safes, just enough to get started. Spend like there’s no tomorrow on preps and safes and all that if you want, have at it. But there is a tomorrow, not everyone will be there, or be wealthy,or well fed, and instead of blowing your money on high tech, which won’t be available post collapse, keep things renewable, simple, and workable, under as many conditions as you can manage. And please stop threatening and trying to one-up each other. You sound like children, and you’re going to need each other, post collapse. Warts and all. Learn how to get along, and do some real training.

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