The Eurozone’s Debt Crisis Impacts The American Debt Crisis

by | Apr 2, 2019 | Headline News | 27 comments

Do you LOVE America?


    Debt worldwide is at apocalyptic and record levels.  At this point in human history, we are seeing governments, private companies, and citizens take on record levels of debt during this crisis, and it’s all compounding into a global epidemic that could implode at any moment.

    The Eurozone is no different and having a debt crisis of their own and it affects the already dramatically strained United States economy. One dip in economic stability in any area can create a ripple effect that goes much deeper than anyone cares to imagine. According to Dynamic Business, thanks to the creation of the IMF (International Monetary Fund) after the end of World War 2, the Eurozone’s problems have become the U.S.’s problems.

    The U.S. essentially pays for 40% of the IMF’s funding. The IMF is charged with bailing out failing economies. That means Americans, who are already burdened by record levels of debt themselves, are responsible for bailing out heavily indebted European countries. The U.S. takes the money they pay to the IMF directly from the taxpayer and with 78% Americans already living paycheck to paycheck, taking on other nation’s debts could destroy the standard of living for a vast majority of the country.

    Additionally, it’s not just the events in Greece and elsewhere across Europe that should have the debt-laden American worried. The U.S. should take a long hard look at the Eurozone’s catastrophic debt crisis timeline and learn from it.  According to a report by Daily FX, each gradual stage of the current crisis made things continually worse, but it also provides information on how to prevent something similar occurring in the US. However, the problem is complicated further when the connected nature of global economies is taken into account.

    The U.S. might not be able to help bail out any other country as the national debt has skyrocketed pushing the nation ever closer to a collapse of their own making. Living beyond one’s means for far too long will eventually come to a head and once it does, it may not be possible for any country to bail out another if none of them have money.


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      1. Last one to leave this Ponzie Scheme called an Economy, please turn the lights out. Speaking of the lights going out, I recently added several solar panels and decided to look for additional “Charge Controllers”. I found these which are a great price for 20 & 30 amp controllers. Don’t be left in the dark when the lights go out!

        Solar Charge Controller 30A, Solar Panel Controller 12V/24V PWM Auto Paremeter Adjustable LCD Display Solar Panel Battery Regulator with Dual USB Load Timer Setting ON/Off Hours ONLY $11.99!

        • Where?

          • Did you find it? It’s an INCREDIBLE DEAL! The company is PowMr.

            I love that it has 2 USB charging ports on the controller. All you need to charge small electronics/lights is a 100 watt solar panel $84.00 and one of these bad boys and you are your own utility co.

            Newpowa 100 Watts 12 Volts Polycrystalline Solar Panel 100W 12V High Efficiency

            • Justice, be sure to check out the 12 volt led lights on ebay too. They use a regular edison socket and work well and save a lot of power. Also no need to run an inverter to power them.

        • Here is the link:

          h ttps://

          • And for those who despise amazon you can get similar deals on ebay. Good job Justice, glad to hear your expanding! Do you have some baofeng radios yet?

            • Beware of the limits of these controllers! The 30 amp rating is for 24 VOLTS NOT 12! I have some very similar units. This I copied from the link you provided…
              Max input Power 360W (12v system), 720W (24v system)
              This is pretty standard for these type controllers.

              • Genius, thanks for the heads up. I cancelled my second order.

                • Justice, no worry just if you need more input power use 2 or 3 controllers in parallel. I didn’t want you to overload them and wonder why it doesn’t work.

                  • You could put 3- 100 watt panels on 1 controller then 3 on another and so on. The controllers are cheap enough it won’t cost much. Also by doing that if 1 controller goes bad you have others that are still working. And you can split up your DC load too. 1 load circuit for this and from another controller a circuit for something else. That way you have a lot more load capacity too. Keep in mind you must have a battery connected to the controller to use any of it. Be sure to connect the battery before you connect the panels because it can burn up the controller if you don’t. Hope this helps 🙂

                    • Genius, “You could put 3- 100 watt panels on 1 controller then 3 on another”, that’s the plan.

                      Plus, I didn’t know either:

                      1. “Keep in mind you must have a battery connected to the controller to use any of it.” I was wondering if I could charge something from the USB ports directly from the controller without a battery. I was going to test that out. Now I won’t. THANKS!

                      2. Or, “Be sure to connect the battery before you connect the panels because it can burn up the controller if you don’t”. When I set up my system several years ago I hooked up the panels to the controller THEN the controller to the batteries. Luckily I did it early morning on a cloudy day. I know better next time. Thanks again!

                  • I appreciate the heads up. It was still a pretty good price and it’s good to have back-ups to my back-ups. I have a small solar set-up and most of my panels are not deployed yet. They’re in storage awaiting SHTF.

                    I feel really good about doubling my solar panels. I can focus on adding additional batteries later.

                    • Good plan! As long as you have enough battery power to run the minimum needed at night you can have a lot more power during the day when the sun is shining with more panels. For instance run a small refrigerator during the day and freeze ice packs then at night shut off the fridge and put the packs in the top shelf of the refrigerator part to keep your stuff cold all night. Then repeat the next day. I use this system and it works great! I shut off my inverter at night too because all my lights are 12V DC and so is the water pump, cell phone amp, radios, so even if the inverter goes out I still have basics and inverters use power on standby too. I have backups for all my stuff but if I didn’t I would still be ok.

                    • Did either of you guys pick up on JOG’s comment about a pulse tech device for reconditioning batteries to make them last twice as long? It was March 29 in the “Victims of FBI Subversion…” thread.

                    • JRS, yes I did. I have been using a very similar device for years. It’s called the battery lifesaver desulphator. And yes it works great! They sell for about 160 bucks (less than the cost of 1 battery). I recommend them to every off gridder. For info go to “batterylifesaver dot com”. It does the same frequency pulsing as the other but cheaper and I have had mine for 12 years with no problemo!

                    • I first got it for a bank of 220ah golf cart batteries. I ABUSED THE FOOK out of them too! They shouldn’t have lasted 3 years but they lasted 7! Then I put it on a new bank of 420ah L-16’s and 5 years later they are still performing like brand new! But then I bought high quality batteries in the first place (US Battery). Trojan batteries are appropriately named because the fook you everytime. Be aware that a simple desulphator will knock the sulphate crystals off the plates and into the bottom of the case. This builds up over time and shorts the cells out destroying the battery. You need a unit that makes the sulphate back into liquid. The unit I use does that. Equalizing does just that, makes it fall to the bottom of the case and build up. I only equalize 1 time a year and even then I probably don’t need to. If you equalize every month as suggested your batteries will eat shit and die.

            • Genius, I have 2 baofeng radios that I purchased several years ago but have never used them. I recently bought 10 USED Motorola CLS1410 UHF Business Two-way Radios. They were a great price and I know several businesses that use them and they are really reliable. But very expensive, even used!

              Plus extra chargers and extra batteries, it was a major expense.

              • Yes motorola is a quality radio but you need programming software/cables and they have limited frequency range. Make sure you are not on a frequency that is being used or you will invite trouble. Radio shack used to have a publication that listed all the frequencies and what they were alloted for. Even if you can find an old one it is still relevant and a great help in choosing a frequency that you won’t get busted using. Some radio shops will do programming for you but you are stuck with it. Thats where the baofeng shines, it is cheap and manually programmable and wide range.

                • Now I remember the name of the radio shack book “Police Call”. It is full of good info. Mine is like from 1993 or so lol but still good info. Check ebay or the other place for a copy. While yer at it maybe a cheap used scanner too. Most frequencies for local cops etc. can be found at radioreference dot com.

                  • Gawd I have so much to say on this subject and a lot of other off grid things I need to write a book! I have read many books on off grid/solar stuff that don’t even cover half of what I know lol. Experience is a great teacher and I have had off grid stuff for 23 years now. I have 2 certs from SEI (solar energy international) and a lot of mistakes I have learned from (and friends mistakes too). This I can tell you.. If your building off grid, figure out the amount of time and money it will cost and then DOUBLE IT! Then you will have a real idea of what it takes. 😛

      2. It is my personal feeling that a European debt collapse is going to be the CAUSE (or trigger) of our collapse. If you invest in the “Money Market” Remember, the money market is the source of European overnight bank loans. If there is a liquidity event, the money market will evaporate (your money) first.

        • It’s not a real money market it is a currency market. I invest in the money market (silver) and I doubt I will be hurt by any currency collapse as I have all the shit I need for a few years. Currency is not money.

        • I can’t help but consider that the last ‘Great’ Depression 1929 came about the same time as the collapse of the Wiemar Republic by 1933. The whole deflationary crisis where the American banks stopped lending to the German…. sound familiar? In some ways, it’s working somewhat in the reverse as regards continents. In others, the same way. Looking at Asia; in particular Japan and China, same deal with roles reversed. But does it matter “who’s” on first? Because “I don’t know” is on third…. that is the only thing I do know.

      3. Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants and debt is the money of slaves.

        • And “moonshine” is the currency of backwoodsmen! 🙂

      4. In this crazy world, the debts owed to you by others are considered “assets”. How crazy is that?

      5. @ JUSTICE and GENIUS,
        You two have made my day. Thank you both for the information regarding solar power systems. I smile because this is an article about debt, but I got information from both of you that really matters.
        THANK YOU!!

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